This Amador Zin has Lodi producer Michael David’s signature bacon and oak, its 17 months in American oak having no place to hide. The wine’s blackberry fruit tastes full, its tannins chewy. High-alcohol California mountain Zin at its most intense concentration.——V.B.(3/1/2012)—— 85

Too ripe, too soft, too Porty and too oaky, with flavors like a chocolate-raspberry and cinnamon drink you get at Starbucks.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 82