Meyer’s 2009 Riesling Reserve – originating half from old vines from the Sporen and below the Schoenenbourg in Riquewihr – projects diverse, greenhouse-like, leafy and floral scents and a surprising hint of coffee. Understated in a welcome way, it brings plenty of apple-like finishing juiciness and refreshment despite its soft feel. Drink this over the next couple of years. Felix Meyer managed to prudently sidestep – albeit with perceptible caution – many of the pitfalls of vintage 2009, in which he harvested relatively early to retain fruit freshness, but bottled most of the wines only the following September. What we have – with Riesling anyway – is 2009 in a delightfully different key; and as for Meyer’s 2008s, they are a resounding and consistent success, albeit weighted quite strongly toward sweetness when it comes to Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. What’s more, Meyer’s collections harbor some fine values.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524