Beyond rich—certainly as far as its alcohol is concerned—this is in fact a finely balanced wine. The fruit is intensely ripe, sweet, but it is delicious in the glass. The black berries are like syrup, smooth and creamy. Pepper, nutmeg and toast give added interest. Like many high alcohol wines, it doesn’t last beyond an hour or two when opened. ——R.V.(11/1/2009)—— 88
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