The Belguardo logo (a three-dimensional star) was inspired by Renaissance all-rounder Leondardo da Vinci. Sporting that catchy symbol on its label in shiny metallic paper, the 2012 Vermentino Belguardo opens with a crystalline, light gold color and beautiful aromatic intensity. This is a fine-tuned and focused expression of the grape with honey, yellow rose, flint, brimstone, fresh apricot and grapefruit. It’s beautifully refreshing and crisp with lots of zesty fresh fruit on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Tenuta Belguardo is the Maremma-based property of Chianti Classico icons, Filippo and Francesco Mazzei of Castello di Fonterutoli. The property is located between Grosseto and Montiano near the Parco dell’Uccellina national park, about ten kilometers from the Tyrrhenian Sea. Importer: Palm Bay International; www.palmbay.com

The 2011 Vermentino is very pretty. Varietal melon, pear, mint and floral notes are given an extra touch of richness and depth in this caressing, inviting white. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Tenuta Belguardo is the Mazzei family’s winery in Maremma. These entry and mid-level priced wines are quite attractive. Unfortunately, the last few years haven’t been easy here. The estate decided against bottling their flagship Tenuta Belguardo in 2009. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2010 Vermentino is a pretty, textured white laced with stone fruit, crushed rocks and flowers. The aromas and flavors build nicely toward the polished finish. This is the first vintage I have tasted of the estate’s Vermentino, and it is impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Here’s a gorgeous Vermentino (with small percentages of other white grapes blended in) that shows a luminous, golden color and bright aromas of white peach, apricot and dried hay. The wine makes an extremely clean, fresh and vibrant impact in the mouth. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 88