This is 85% Stillwater fruit and 15% Klipsun. It was fermented in three quite different ways, a mix of 25% concrete eggs, 25% new French oak barrels and 50% stainless steel. Moving toward a Pouilly Fume style, winemaker Matthew Loso has crafted a sleek, racy, highly textural wine, loaded with refreshing flavors and scents of cut grass, citrus rind and extended lees contact. ——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 89