The 2013 Villa Gemma Bianco opens to dusty notes of ash and mineral and segues to white peach, rose, blanched almond and honey. The wine shows an evolved character with linear, tight structure. Pretty herbal notes appear on the close.

The 2010 Bianco Villa Gemma is 80% Trebbiano, 15% Cococciola and 5% Chardonnay. Peaches, mint and flowers flow gracefully onto the palate in this textured, caressing white. Mineral notes add brightness and a sense of proportion on the finish. The Bianco is also an excellent value. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Masciarelli is a reference point producer for rich, internationally styled wines from Abruzzo. Richness and ripeness are pushed to the extremes here, but when the estate is firing on all cylinders the wines are undeniably beautiful. Readers will have to accept less varietal typicity for the lushness these wines offer. Importer: Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, MA; tel. (781) 335-6620