Maryhill Proprietor's Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, USA

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There is one Rhone varietal wine in the collection. The 2006 Syrah Proprietor’s Reserve is 100% varietal aged for 20 months in 40% new French oak. It offers up a carnivore’s perfume of smoked meat, hung game, bacon, incense, and blueberry. Layered and dense on the palate, it has tons of succulent fruit, well concealed structure, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Enjoy this sexy, pleasure-bent effort over the next 8-10 years. Based on this superb and well-priced portfolio of wines, Maryhill Winery merits serious attention.Tel. (877) 627-9445; www.maryhillwinery.com

Here’s a well-made wine that shows that this important producer can rise to the challenge when it retains its focus on varietal character. This authoritative, smoky wine smells like Syrah and it follows through with firm, supple, rich flavors. The floral and citrus notes, the herbal/olive underpinnings, the ripe—not roasted—fruit all hit the mark.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 89

Not as successful as the winery’s other reds, this seems overloaded with vanilla scents and flavors. The oak overpowers the light fruit, and the tannins – again quite dry – are not set off against anything ripe and sweet to counterbalance their bitterness.——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 85