The 2009 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Ronco dei Moreri shows the more delicate, restrained side of this grape that is usually better known for yielding wines of power. Sweet scents of tobacco, crushed flowers, licorice and berries take shape in the glass as the wine opens up. Floral notes are woven throughout the soft, caressing finish. This is a very pretty, refined Refosco that stands out for its medium-bodied personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Here’s a dark and well-extracted Refosco with deep layers of black fruit and spice. The wine is brambly and slight sour on the close but also offers soothing softness as it moves across the palate.——M.L.(12/15/2009)—— 87