Vinified in discreetly toasted 500-liter new Slovenian barrels with batonnage, Malat’s 2006 Chardonnay Hochrain is as he proudly described it (oh me of little faith!): complex, elegant and not at all overtly woody or milky. Toasted hazelnut and piquant apple pip aromas are also reflected on the palate, where they help to offset the richness of vanilla-tinged lemon cream. But there is also a primary, apple-like juiciness that keeps this refreshing and brings one back for repeated sips, and a finish of uncanny balance. What’s more, I suspect that this will offer more complexity and no less excellent a balance if re-tasted now or in 2009. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.
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