Malat Gelber Muskateller Landwid

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Malat’s 2006 Gelber Muskateller Landwid displays the distinctive and engaging personality one so often finds with this grape in his hands. Or perhaps I ought to have written: “personalities,” because Muskateller can have many faces here, and this year’s is the classic, briskly pungent and bright one known from Styria. Sage and lemon stain the palate, where a formidable sense of sheer extract is not in the least incompatible with refreshment, invigoration, and dynamic. A lick of salt with the citrus and herb offers a finish very much in keeping with the personality on this occasion, although one could wish for a bit more sheer sap and juiciness. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.