The Trimbach 2008 Gewurztraminer Reserve is more concentrated than its “classic” counterpart, and although it harbors more bitter elements as well, these are well-integrated into a satisfyingly juicy matrix of the sort almost uniquely possible in this vintage. Smoky and animal notes vie for attention with the classic scents of rose petal, and persist imposingly. For now, I would just as soon savor this wine’s ostensibly lesser sibling, but in two or three years this reserve bottling may display more of its potential, which I won’t yet try to estimate in years. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
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