The Latour 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny (from purchased juice) is surprisingly soft and fruit-dominated for a wine from notoriously stony, high elevation. Peachy and rich on the palate, it boasts satisfying length and admirable polish but just lacks a bit for personality, or at least for nooks or crannies. I would plan to drink it over the next couple of years. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.

Spiced minerals are found in the nose of the light-bodied 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny (white). A spry, tightly wound offering, it displays peppery minerals and crisp pears in its slightly constricted, yet appealing, character. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.

The mineral-scented 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny has austere dried gravel and rock flavors. Light to medium-bodied and tightly wound, this effort clearly reflects its terroir’s poor soil and cool temperatures. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.