The 2006 Morgon Chateau des Lumieres (an outstanding bottling from the Cote du Py falls outside the price parameters of this report) has much in common with its Moulin-a-Vent counterpart. The sheer brightness and concentration of red fruits (here raspberry and cherry) and saline mineral dimension as well as the underlying, marrow-like sense of rich meat stock are all quite striking. Here, the texture seems a bit more polished, the oak less in evidence, and there are smoky, gamey nuances one often encounters in Morgon. Along, juicy, savory finish ensues. I would enjoy following either of these two wines for the next couple of years. (If one wants to speculate on the longer-term ageability envisioned by Lardiere and de Castelnau, it makes most sense to invest the $30-$40 in their terroir-specific bottlings, all six of which 2006s I rated between 89 and 91 points.)The vision expounded by Jadot’s technical director Jacques Laridiere and his Beaujolais-based counterpart Guillaume de Castelnau is not widely shared, but it is founded on a serious study of this region’s history as well as on the tasting experience and intuitions of one of the wine world’s true gurus (Lardiere). In brief, the vision is that Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent should be treated to Burgundian vinification, including new barriques, segregation by vineyard, and treatment as vins de garde. Two things to note in tasting young wines from this team: don’t serve them at as cool a temperature as you would be tempted to other Beaujolais (it will enhance their partly oak-induced astringency); give them time in the air to display their depth of flavor. I warmed up to the 2005s here on repeated exposure, but I find the 2006s more charming and accessible, and ultimately as good.Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300
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