Wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, sweet spices, petals and coniferous forest floor, the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers (Domaine Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, layered and vibrant, with terrific depth at the core, and a bright, precise profile despite its maturity, conceding with a long, saline finish. This parcel was ripped up for replanting in 2022, and in 2021 it was including in a blend, so this is its swan song vintage.

Rich and dramatic, the sample I tasted of the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers (Domaine Louis Jadot) was a little marked by its élevage, a liberal application of toasty new oak mingling with its bouquet of sweet berry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely balanced, I suspect it wasn't showing its best when I encountered it.

Aromas of cassis, orange rind, smoked meats and loamy soil preface the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers (Maison Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's concentrated and textural, with fine definition and a long, aromatic finish. This is another of the high points of the négoce portfolio this year.

More reserved and austere than Jadot's other Gevrey premiers crus, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers (Maison Louis Jadot) exhibits notes of sweet berries, plums, coniferous forest floor and wood smoke, followed by a medium-bodied, chewy palate that may flesh out by the time it's bottled.