The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne wafts from the glass with notes of juicy apples, pastry cream, sweet spices and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and open-knit, with succulent acids and a charming, front-loaded profile that will give pleasure on release.

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1Er Cru Clos de la Garenne, which was still in cask, has a faint hint of butterscotch and almond on the nose, reticent at first but opening with some conviction with aeration. The palate is fresh on the entry with bitter lemon, Granny Smith apples and a keen line of acidity. This actually puts the Meursault Perrières into a hat -- a really superb Puligny from Drouhin, with a killer saline aftertaste.

The Drouhin 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne sports a nose of green tea, smoked meat, and distilled pit fruits. Compared with the similarly understated Folatieres, this is equally intriguing and boasts a similar saline, savory, meaty depth. But for now at least, it is less well-organized, without the Folatiere's sense of refinement, lift, or proportionality. Still, it promises fascination over at least the next 4-5 years. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770