The spicy, earthy 1990 Pommard-Epenots exhibits plenty of power, as well as considerable tannin, body, and ripe fruit. This wine should evolve gracefully for another 7-8 years. Drouhin makes stylish, elegant red burgundies which, from a technical point of view, are always flawless. His 1990s from the Cote de Beaune are lovely, pure, medium-weight wines with both elegance and gracefulness. The characteristics of the 1990 vintage - the super color, sweet, expansive fruit and ripeness - are also apparent, despite the Drouhin signature. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY.

The most impressive of the Cote de Beaune red wines is the Pommard Les Epenots. It is surprisingly big, bold, and forceful with plenty of underlying depth and body. This concentrated, alcoholic, tannic wine should age well until the late nineties. The 1985s from this famous firm are all impeccably clean, correct, well-made wines. Drouhin has managed to preserve the individual identity of each appellation as the wines do not taste alike. There is, of course, a house style, but that can be said of the wines from a small grower as well.