There are two barrels of the 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, dried peony, licorice and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and depth for the vintage, framed by a broad-shouldered chassis of fine-grained but chalky tannin and underpinned by a lovely line of acidity.

There might be just one 300-liter barrel and one glass bonbon of the 2015 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru—but what a barrel and bonbon they are! It has an outrageously gorgeous bouquet with ample ripe black cherry, blueberry and violet scents that are utterly intoxicating. The palate is very well balanced with crisp tannin, wonderful mineralité and energy, replete with a linear and poised finish. This is a Bonnes-Mares that manages to embrace both the opulence that emanates from the vineyard and a sense of precision that marks out brilliant winemaking. This is a fabulous wine from Véronique Drouhin and her team.

The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was cropped on September 19 and includes 15% whole cluster fruit, and unlike the Musigny, this had not been bottled. Deep in color, it has great volume and generosity on the nose with blackberry, boysenberry and wilted violet aromas. The fruit is more red than black, perhaps quite Vosne-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, clean and pure, quite refined with deftly integrated oak. Curiously, it comes across as linear on the finish. This is a strict Bonnes-Mares with good tension, a Bonnes-Mares that does not want to let its hair down at the moment. I'd like to see just a little more flamboyance once in bottle.

The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is weightless and elegant. With time in the glass it shows off lovely inner perfume and plenty of grace. The tannins are firm, but also quite refined, showing the proximity to Chambolle, a theme that reappears in the striking aromatics. I especially admire the energy and verve that shapes the finish. This is a hugely inviting wine. Sadly, there is just one 350-liter barrel to go around. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. This is an impressive showing from Drouhin. In my view the 2010s are more interesting and transparent than the 2009s. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a vintage with long-term aging potential, which certainly seems to be the case. Some of the wines were vinified with a portion of whole clusters, including the Corton-Bressandes, Petits-Monts, Charmes and Musigny. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is weightless and elegant. With time in the glass it shows off lovely inner perfume and plenty of grace. The tannins are firm, but also quite refined, showing the proximity to Chambolle, a theme that reappears in the striking aromatics. I especially admire the energy and verve that shapes the finish. This is a hugely inviting wine. Sadly, there is just one 350-liter barrel to go around. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. This is an impressive showing from Drouhin. In my view the 2010s are more interesting and transparent than the 2009s. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a vintage with long-term aging potential, which certainly seems to be the case. Some of the wines were vinified with a portion of whole clusters, including the Corton-Bressandes, Petits-Monts, Charmes and Musigny.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770