Always a highlight in the Drouhin portfolio, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is showing brilliantly in bottle. Unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp Anjou pear, citrus zest, blanched almonds, pastry cream and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, chalky finish. This is one of the most intense, tightly wound renditions of this cuvée in recent years.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of golden orchard fruit, peach, confit citrus, honeycomb and toast. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and textural, it's satiny and enveloping, with a fleshy core underpinned by succulent acids, concluding with a nicely defined finish despite its gourmand, elegantly sun-kissed profile.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is showing brilliantly from bottle, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of orange oil, nutmeg, Anjou pear, white peach, honeycomb and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with an elegantly textural attack, fine concentration at the core and racy underpinning acids. Harmonious and complete, this is routinely one of Drouhin's finest white wines, and that is true in 2017 also.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche performed brilliantly, revealing a lovely bouquet of white flowers, ripe pear and hazelnut cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, glossy and textural, with considerable concentration and chewy extract underpinned by bright, tangy acids that lend excellent delineation to the long, pure finish. It's a terrific Morgeot that would embarrass many grands crus in this vintage.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Drouhin's 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche has a crisp, vivacious bouquet with scents of Golden Delicious, white peach and subtle mineral scents. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, quite compact at this youthful stage with a waxy-textured, quite pithy finish that at least retains commendable definition. Very fine and it improved with aeration, therefore I would allow this another couple of years to develop.