The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques was cropped on October 12, entirely destemmed and underwent a 20-day maceration, spending 13 months in oak. It has a wonderful bouquet: very well defined with forest floor, soy and brambly red berry fruit. There is very good intensity here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good depth and harmony with a crisp, white pepper-dashed finish. There is already a sense of completeness here and will be well worth seeking out when released in the spring. It has the hubris to outperform both the Charmes-Chambertin and Clos-de-Bèze!

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune, either I under-estimated the 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques from Domaine Joseph Drouhin from barrel or it has meliorated dramatically in bottle! Maybe it's a bit of both? Here, it has a slight reduction on the nose that manifests a metallic/stainless steel scents the permeates the red cherry and redcurrant fruit. With aeration, it appears to shake this off and reveal commendable delineation. The palate is juicy and ripe on the entry. Yes, it is lifted by some new oak, but that is counterbalanced by sufficient fruit concentration to leave this well-endowed Gevrey-Chambertin with a bright future. Under blind conditions it's not easy following the equivalent from Armand Rousseau, but Drouhin's Lavaux Saint Jacques seems to have everything needed for a truly great wine.

The Lavaux St.-Jacques is robust, ageworthy, and tannic, yet concentrated and balanced. This is a big, chewy wine to put away until 1995-1997. The 1985s from this famous firm are all impeccably clean, correct, well-made wines. Drouhin has managed to preserve the individual identity of each appellation as the wines do not taste alike. There is, of course, a house style, but that can be said of the wines from a small grower as well.