In the context of this year's lineup from Chapoutier, I have to consider the 2018 Cote Rotie les Bécasses a bit of a disappointment. It's medium-bodied and silky, with charming notes of red berries and tea leaves, but it doesn't appear to have the depth or richness I was expecting to see. Let's see how it turns out following its élevage.

The raspberry and blueberry-scented 2017 Cote Rotie les Bécasses is produced mainly from purchased grapes, sourced across the entire appellation. It's firmed up a bit since last year but remains approachable, being medium to full-bodied on the palate and lined with silky tannins.

The medium-bodied 2016 Cote Rotie les Bécasses is a blend of several parcels along the entire length of the appellation, from Saint-Cyr in the north through Ampuis to Tupin and Semons in the south. It offers a mixture of pepper and herbs, tart red fruit and crushed stone, supported by fine-grained tannins and ample length. Not particularly round or generous, it's more about silk and elegance.

It's hard to believe this is Chapoutier's "entry-level" C?te R?tie. The 2015 Cote Rotie les Bécasses is a rich, full-bodied, creamy-textured effort, loaded with ripe fruit that takes the form of mocha, milk chocolate and roasted meat, leading into a long, savory and velvety finish.

The least expensive C?te R?tie is the 2014 C?te R?tie Les Bécasses, an outstanding wine that shows the forward, elegant and charming style of the vintage. Offering up notes of strawberries, black raspberries, flowers and spice, this medium-bodied effort is silky and lightly textured on the palate, with sweet tannin. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years.