Not many people make a Carignan anymore, because the variety was condemned by critics as rustic. But this isn’t a rustic wine. With sweetly ripened blackberry, mocha, toffee, black pepper and smoky new oak flavors wrapped into fine, classic tannins, it might almost be a young Syrah. Lovely now and for a couple years.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 90