Lone Canary does a Red, a Rosso and this Rouge, a classic Bordeaux blend of two Cabs and Merlot. Winemaker Mike Scott shows his European leanings, keeping alcohol levels in check (13.5%) and emphasizing balance and nuance over sheer power. The wine displays some of the herbal nuances and delicate oak influences lost in jammier efforts, but pushes through a long, intriguing finish. ——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 89