I am surprised this vintage is so light on its feet. The Leone de Castris 2017 Primitivo di Manduria Villa Santera, with a solid 14.5% alcohol content, shows snappy freshness nonetheless, which feels right at home in such a mid-weight style. Six months in large oak casks lend notes of smoke, tar and spice. A terrific value wine, you might pair it with an onion calzone. Some 290,000 bottle are made each year.