Le Vieux Donjon Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

老教堂酒莊教皇新堡白葡萄酒

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After adoring the 2019 version of this wine, I confess to being somewhat perplexed by the showing of Vieux Donjon's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc. A 50-50 blend of Clairette and Roussanne traditionally made and matured in stainless steel, I thought I might have detected hints of pencil shavings and/or crushed stone accenting the pineapple and pear fruit. It's medium-bodied and crisp, with some citrus-pith notes on the finish.

A tank-aged blend of Clairette and Roussanne, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is medium to full-bodied, with a plump, appealing texture and modest flavors of pear and pineapple. It's a delicious, easy-drinking white Rh?ne to drink over the next few years, seemingly without the gravitas of some other recent vintages.

An outstanding white, Michel's 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc offers up ripe golden fruits, dried pineapple, flower and citrus (which becomes more and more apparent with air) to go with a medium-bodied, fresh and lively feel on the palate. It-s a delicious, pure and nicely focused wine to drink over the coming couple of years. Drink now-2015. One of my favorite estates, these classic, textbook wines are made by talented Claire Michel, who has recently taken over the running of the estate from her parents. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Three terrific wines include the estate’s finest white Chateauneuf du Pape to date, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc. A blend of equal parts Roussanne and Clairette, this sensational white wine boasts a delicate color along with a big, sweet nose of rose petals, tangerine oil, honeyed citrus and quince. This full-bodied, crisp, well-balanced effort displays good acidity as well as a touch of minerality. This is a super white to drink over the next 4-5 years although my instincts suggest it will last longer. Now that Lucien Michel has inched his way into retirement, his young daughter, Claire, who did an apprenticeship at Napa’s Harlan Estate, is in full control of the winemaking (another example of a woman who has taken charge of a famous estate).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173