The 2009 Firebelle is 53% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec and 3% Cabernet Franc. Dark red fruit, flowers, spices and licorice are some of the many notes that emerge from this impeccable, totally classy wine. It can be enjoyed now, but there is more than enough freshness to allow the wine to age gracefully for a number of years. Darker notes of tar and iron add considerable depth and muscle to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Larkmead is one of the historic estates in Napa Valley, with a rich lineage that goes back to 1895. The wines I tasted with proprietor Cam Baker and winemaker Andy Smith were all exceptional. Most importantly, though, these are highly individualistic wines loaded with true personality and class. Pricing remains exceedingly fair by Napa Valley standards, considering the quality of what is in the bottle.Available through Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2008 Firebelle (55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Malbec; 1,050 cases produced) exhibits a dense opaque purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, white chocolate and cocoa, great fruit, purity and intensity, a full-bodied, layered mouthfeel and elegance and finesse. Already evolved, complex and delicious, it should continue to drink well for a decade or more. This is an estate where the 2008 may actually eclipse the 2007. When people talk about the greatest vineyards of Napa Valley, Larkmead has to be among the top half dozen or so terroirs. This historic vineyard dates back to the late 1800s and has been owned by the Solari family (currently Cam Baker and Kate Solari Baker) since 1948. The well-known Andy Smith is the consulting winemaker (he is also the force behind some of the brilliant wines of DuMol in the Russian River Valley). Larkmead has been making terrific wines over the last 5-6 years, but the 2007s were the finest wines I have ever tasted from this estate. The 2008s are very close in quality to the 2007s, and every 2008 performed better from bottle than it did last year from barrel (always a good sign). The Larkmead Vineyard (just over 120 acres) has again achieved remarkable success in 2009. These offerings are among the stars of the 2009 vintage. If the 2008s and 2007s were versions of Napa Valley meeting Pauillac, the 2009s might be considered Napa Valley wines meeting both Pomerol and Pauillac. They all possess silky tannins, deep, concentrated fruit, full body and upfront personalities that will make them even more charming than the brilliant 2007s and 2008s. There is lots of depth as well as perfumed characters in the 2009s. In fact, their aromatics may turn out to be even more intense and expansive than in either 2008 or 2007. In case you missed them, although I think they are completely sold out, the scores awarded to the 2007s last year are: 2007 LMV Salon (97), 2007 Firebelle (93), 2007 Solari Reserve (96+), 2007 The Lark (96+), and 2007 Estate (94+).Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934