Very crisp and green, this offering from the broadest Loire area appellation comes off like a Kiwi more than a Frenchie. It's brisk, with almost sharp green herb notes and a touch of the (oh, yes) cat-pee note that so many have. It's tangy and light, a very good example of that style (if that's your cup of tea). ——M.M.(2/1/2002)—— 85