This sultry dessert wine offers dried fid, orange rind and spice on the nose, and on the palate, lemon, spice, dried dates and fig. A masculine profile that pairs well with cheeses, nuts, and fruit.——S.K.(4/1/2010)—— 86

The 2000 MUSCATO NECTAR, also in 375ml, is lighter in weight and not quite as intense as its Anthemis sibling reviewed this issue. It is an unusual Muscat, as the grapes are dried outside in the sun, similar to the Vinsanto method used on Santorini and it is not fortified. Fermentation is in stainless steel and then it is aged in used oak barrels for 3 years. It comes in at 14% alcohol. Amber in color, but lighter there as well than the Anthemis, it is still quite sweet and honeyed, but more reticent and softer. It is still several steps ahead of the typical, inexpensive Muscats that Greece does so well, and a very different style. Elegant and graceful, it has an ethereal quality to it that makes it quite charming. The finish is more modest than on the Anthemis, but that is relative. It is beautiful the next day, showing every bit as much, if not more, intensity of flavor. Drink now-2020. Samos has had a tradition of making sweet Muscats for centuries. Many of the French Muscat vines (as planted in Alsace, for instance) are said to originate from Samos cuttings. The traditional method of production is to add alcohol distilled from grapes near the end of fermentation. The winery says that it deviates from this practice for the Anthemis and Vin Doux bottlings by adding the alcohol directly to the freshly pressed must. This, the winery says, does not change the sugar or alcohol levels, but does produce somewhat different flavors than typical Muscats. Note that these wines were actually made by the well known co-op on Samos (Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos, separately listed), which makes wines at times for private labels.Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, N.C.; tel: (704) 875-1973.