Kuhling-Gillot Qvinterra Riesling Qba Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

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Gillot’s 2011 Riesling trocken Qvinterra delivers a rather prosaic but attractively juicy message of fresh lemon and peach on an intriguingly waxy palate. This compact, relatively straightforward, Oppenheim-based generic has never tasted better than in this vintage, and should drink well for at least a couple of years. Carolin Gillot has expanded her acreage in Nierstein, and given what seems to be a dearth of growers from that village who are really on top of their game (Strub very much excepted), Riesling lovers must be grateful that some of Germany’s elite vintners who are based nearby (or, in Keller’s case, not all that nearby) have been taking custody of vineyards on the famous Red Slope, where increasingly many of the traditional landholders have in recent years sold their estates and small growers have shown themselves willing to lease after witnessing the meticulous work of a Gillot with neighboring vines. (Such willingness cannot, sadly, be presumed in the world of European wine. On the contrary, it seems more common for small landholders to resist leasing to outsiders out of misplaced communal pride.) This year’s Gillot Grosse Gewachse finished analytically extremely dry, and remained on their full lees until three days before June bottling. The result is an enhancement of fullness and stuffing, though happily at around 13.5% alcohol they evince no significant heat. (Why Gillot neglected to show me her Nackenheimer Rothenberg Grosses Gewachs, though, I can’t explain, and am remiss for having not redressed that omission.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

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Not a stereotypical fruity Riesling, the 2009 Qvinterra features plenty of savory, umami-like notes of broth and brine to go along with hints of sun-warmed peaches. It’s medium bodied, with a long, velvety-textured finish unusual for a white wine. Intriguing. ——J.C.(3/1/2011)—— 88

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