The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve was sourced from a parcel planted in 1975. It reveals a nicely developed nose due to its extended time in bottle. Oak and earth notes intermingle with assorted black fruits and a hint of chocolate. This sets the stage for a nicely proportioned, concentrated, lengthy Cabernet that has the structure to evolve for another 1-2 years. Its drinking window extends through 2020+. Kiona Vineyards and Winery has been producing wine since 1980 (and growing grapes for considerably longer than that). It has long been a puzzle because its grapes are in great demand but Kiona itself has had difficulty taking advantage of their superior farming. Over the past 1-2 years it appears that significant improvements have been made.Tel. (509) 588-6746; www.kionawine.com

Their reserve Cab, from their own Red Mountain vineyard, is this winery’s finest effort. The 2001 is not quite as penetrating and powerful as the magnificent 1999, but it is a stylish, polished, almost steely wine with medium-term aging potential, perfectly ripened fruit, a fine focus and highlights of Red Mountain minerals. ——P.G.(5/1/2004)—— 90