The 2017 Caldera comes from the Goldbud vineyard, farmed by Ron Mansfield, and is blended of 32% Mourvèdre , 41% Grenache and 27% Counoise, aged 16 months in neutral 600-liter French demi-muids. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it gives up a beguiling perfume of cracked black pepper, cinnamon stick, cloves and potpourri with a core of kirsch and black raspberries plus a waft of garrigue. Full-bodied with a plush texture and tons of spiced red and black fruits, it finishes long and peppery. 150 cases produced.

The 2016 Caldera is a blend of 64% Mourvèdere, 30% Grenache and 6% Counoise. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it reveals scents of red and black cherries, warm plums and blackberry pie with an undercurrent of Indian spices, garrigue and black soil. The palate is full-bodied with a lovely soft texture and plenty of freshness lifting the black fruits to a long finish. 216 cases produced.

The 2011 Caldera is composed of 62% Mourvedre and the rest Counoise and Grenache aged 18 months in neutral wood. It reveals blueberry, dusty, loamy soil, black currant and cherry characteristics, surprisingly sweet tannin for Mourvedre, and a round, brooding, rustic personality. It is ideal for drinking over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 252-7477

A dark, pungent wine, the 2010 Caldera offers up game, incense, tobacco, rosemary and smoke all in a voluptuous style backed up by serious tannins. Full-bodied and intense, the 2010 Caldera is loaded with personality. There is no shortage of character here. The 2010 is 65% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache, and 6% Counoise. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Helen Keplinger has turned out a gorgeous set of 2010s to follow up on her 2009s. Now that Keplinger has moved on from her post at Bryant, hopefully she will have even more time to dedicate to her own wines. In addition to the 2010s, I also re-tasted the 2009s, most of which were a bit closed, perhaps in bottle shock. Tel. (707) 252-7417

The 2009 Caldera bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark red fruit, spices, new leather and licorice. This plump, juicy red boasts striking inner perfume and gorgeous vibrancy. It is a beautiful wine to drink now and over the next 8-10 years. The 2009 is 65% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache and 6% Counoise. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Helen Keplinger is the winemaker at Bryant, where she now also makes her own wines with her husband, Douglas. Keplinger credits the years she spent working in Priorat as shaping her philosophy on wine and life. These Rhone blends are made from hillside vineyards in Amador County, El Dorado County and Knights Valley. The wines are aged in French oak, 20-65% new, depending on the wine. Racking is kept to a bare minimum and the wines are neither fined nor filtered. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these pure, handcrafted wines. Tel. (707) 252-7417