The 2003 Grand Reserve Meritage, a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc all aged in French oak, comes from the Sonoma estate of Jess Jackson. This is a wine that could turn out to be outstanding. Deep ruby/purple with notes of graphite, cedar, pain grille, black cherry, and mulberry, the wine is medium to full-bodied, has pure fruit as well as nice texture. It has a Bordeaux-like personality and good length. Despite the size of some of the cuvees produced at Kendall-Jackson (2.3 million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and 300,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc), winemaker Randy Ullom is at the top of his game, and of course is given carte blanche authority by the two principals, Barbara Banke and her husband Jess Jackson. There are some terrific values in this portfolio.Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

A Bordeaux-like blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2004 Grand Reserve Meritage (762 cases) possesses more spicy new oak than its siblings, along with sweet berry fruit, fudge, coffee, and black currants. Well-made, medium-bodied, tightly-knit and closed at present, it requires 1-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for 10-12 years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

Here’s a lush, soft Bordeaux blend, based on Cabernet and blended from vineyards around the county. Showing beautifully now, the wine opens with ripe cherry, blackberry, raspberry and coffee notes, surrounded by elegantly refined tannins. Drink now through 2010 for freshness.——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 91

The elegant 1999 Grand Reserve Meritage (a blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc, and 26% Merlot; equal parts Napa and Alexander Valley fruit) offers aromas and flavors of red currants, spice box, and dried herbs, along with firm tannin in the medium-bodied finish. This St.-Emilion-styled red will drink well for 10-12 years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5895