The 1995 Royale Proprietary White Wine, a 78% Sauvignon/22% Semillon blend that is one-third barrel-fermented in new French oak, is an impressive wine. It displays copious quantities of gorgeous citrusy, melony, fig-like fruit, a rich, surprisingly intense mouthfeel, medium body, enough acidity for vibrancy and delineation, and a long, lusty, heady finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.Kendall-Jackson, which has created justifiable excitement with their portfolio of single winery estate-bottled, high quality wines known collectively as the Artisans and Estates group, continues to offer a major line-up of varietal wines, as well as a proprietary red, all under the K-J label. I am of three minds about these wines. First, the Vintner's Reserve series has consistently offered consumers reasonably good value for the price. As with most California wines, prices have crept higher, but bargains still exist. The more expensive Grand Reserve series is next in the K-J hierarchy. This is more of a hit or miss category. The selections are generally well-made, but some of these decidedly one-dimensional wines fetch a lofty $40 a bottle. My favorite wine in this series tends to be the Chardonnay. The most disappointing offerings are Kendall-Jackson's flirtation with such esoteric varietals as Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. At the top level are the proprietary wines, the white Royale and red Cardinale. Since the early nineties, the Cardinale has been excellent, often outstanding. The first vintages of Royale look to be equally fine efforts.Tel. (707) 263-9333; Fax (707) 263-6817