Tasted from barrel, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Hills seemed more backward, tannic and unevolved. Jess Jackson likes his Cabernets to age a long time and therefore, almost all of them, even the low end cuvees, have plenty of structure and extract. This 2008 does not reveal the charm, opulence and intensity of the 2007, but there is a lot going on and it unquestionably has outstanding potential. Kendall-Jackson enjoys a well-deserved reputation for over-delivering quality vis a vis price for its wines.Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

The outstanding 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Hills from Jess Jackson’s holdings in Knight’s Valley is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 19 months in nearly all French oak (45% new). Its dense opaque purple color is followed by notes of spring flowers, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, graphite and ink. Full-bodied and rich with moderately high tannins as well as tremendous concentration and length, it needs 2-3 years of cellaring and should keep for 15-20. Kendall-Jackson enjoys a well-deserved reputation for over-delivering quality vis a vis price for its wines.Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

From the steep Sonoma slopes of Mount St. Helena comes this tannic, concentrated young 100% Cabernet. Dramatic in structure and flavor, with massively packed blackberries, dark chocolate and pain grille. The wine was aged in 49% new oak, which adds smoky, spice overtones. Drink now and through 2013. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 93