Elevates the Keller style of superripe, oaky Chardonnay into a more refined, balanced wine, equally rich but more perfect. It’s still potent in buttered toast, vanilla, caramel, honey and pineapple jam, but crisp acidity and minerality help to give structure to the opulence. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 92

4 An extraordinary Chardonnay whose complicated richness is balanced with tight acidity and a firm grounding of stony minerals. Brings to mind a great Chablis, with its zesty tang followed by elaborate layers of tropical fruits and pears. Utterly delicious, wildly appealing, a wine that will develop bottle interest over the next six years. Only 97 cases were produced. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 95

Tastes like there’s a great deal of residual sugar left over, giving the wine an overtly sugary sweetness that’s almost like Sauternes.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 84

Available only in magnums, this Chard consists of a single barrel from the estate vineyard, which is in the Petaluma area, a very cool region. The wine is very fine. It’s equal parts ripe green pears, Meyer lemons and smoky oak, with a firm, steely underpinning of minerals. Should age well for a Chardonnay, especially in the big bottle.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 94