The 2019 Old Bastard Shiraz is from a single vineyard in the Barossa, which was planted in 1893. In the mouth, the wine is inky, intense, concentrated, black, midnight—you get the gist of it here. The fruit swirls through eddies of savory tannin that dust the sweet flavor in a sheath of exotic spice and red earth. This is a very, very good wine, seriously good. Given the vintage conditions of 2018 and 2019, I did not expect to prefer the 2019, but here we are. I love this. It's a big wine—excellent, balanced. 15% alcohol, sealed under natural cork and flexible wax.

The 2018 Old Bastard Shiraz was birthed of a year of excellent ripeness and vitality. The fruit was handpicked from old vines in Nuriootpa, planted in 1893. This was matured 19 months in 35% new French oak barriques and bottled unfined and unfiltered. On the nose, the wine is ripe (although not necessarily reflected in the moderate alcohol of 14.5%) and redolent with poached plums, aniseed, dark chocolate, roast beetroot and blood. The vanillin oak (not a term I find myself using anymore, but the fresh pod character here is clear) sits astride the fruit at this stage, suggesting that further time is required for it to ameliorate as one. The fruit is pure and more delicate than I was expecting—the redness of the vintage shines bright. The plus sign in the score indicates it will improve, I believe. Give it five.

From vines planted in 1893, the impressively dark-colored 2016 Old Bastard Shiraz kicks off with scents of creosote and vanilla, only opening up slowly to reveal mixed berries, licorice, black olives and cedar. There's a slight herbal tang as well. On the palate, this is medium to full-bodied, not the hugely powerful beast of 15 years ago, with a sense of balance and decorum that belies the wine's name and iconic Steadman label. The tannins are ripe and silky-textured, lingering through the long, mouthwatering finish and suggesting that even after five years, this wine could drink well for another two decades.

The 2015 Old Bastard Shiraz, from vines planted in 1893, boasts ethereal aromas of menthol, licorice, blueberries and roasted meat. It's a big, full-bodied wine, yet it comes across as lighter than expected, with a fluid, silky feel on the palate and a bright, peppery finish. A wine of seeming contradictions, it's concentrated but lively, ripe yet crisp, savory and fruity, and loaded up front while being long on the finish. It should drink well for over a decade.

Dark, dense and muscular, with a mouthful of blackberry, spice and espresso flavors, accented by a touch of candied ginger. Robust and intense, featuring flavors that persist on the finish, transmitting power and focus. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases made, 25 cases imported.??–MW??Region: Australia / Barossa / Barossa Valley Select to Add