Even with relatively late harvest such as conditions in 2010 virtually dictated, the wines had all finished fermenting by Christmas, which is standard behavior in this cellar. Harvested already in mid October, Schmid’s 2010 Gruner Veltliner Satzen (from loess and gravel soils near the winery in Stratzing) still boasts 12% natural alcohol, and abundant, juicy, melony fruit. This polished and persistent performance gains in refreshment and stimulation from cucumber and cress; enjoy it over the next couple of years. I last met with Schmid in order to taste his 2007s (on which I reported in issue 181), and my visit this June confirms him as a source of some seriously delicious and well-priced wines. He opened for me a few of his 2009s as well as his most recent collection. Schmid claims to have had only one-third of a normal crop in 2010 from his 40 acres (which are spread over some 50 parcels). “Some of my old vines didn’t even have any crop on them this year,” he notes.A Monika Caha Selection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 877-3558 with various importers, including Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This estate north of Krems is 60% Gruner Veltliner, and for their lightest (12% alcohol) cuvee, the 2007 Gruner Veltliner Satzen, they supplement their acreage with some purchased fruit. Cress, mint, lavender, and white pepper feature in this aromatic, pungent, nippy, and refreshing wine from loess and gravel soils, meant to be enjoyed by the end of this year. Josef Schmid – son of the eponymous Schmid for whom the winery is named – did not score quite the number of successes this year that had come to my attention from 2006. But visiting with him made clear the passion with which he is pursuing quality, and which is resulting in some excellent values. Nearly all of the 2007s here were rather tight and reductive last summer, so they may well all benefit short term from time in bottle.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800