Weingut Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, Germany

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Not to be confused with an eponymous, nugatory Nahe Grosslage, the vineyard from which Leitz's 2007 Rudesheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett comes is a gently-sloping, walled-in monopole immediately west of Rudesheim's tourist district (featuring Germany's highest per acreage kitsch) and just across the town's formidable array of railroad tracks from the Rhine. The previous owners sold Leitz the three and a half acres - originally registered as three separate enclaves, Rosengarten, Kreuzgarten, and Bienengarten - five years ago. -Afterwards,- he relates, -I was disappointed, but the vines had been poorly cared for, and now, after four years of t.l.c. I-ve more or less fallen in love with the vineyard.- These were the first grapes harvested in 2007. Gooseberry, mint, and tangerine lend this a Sauvignon- or Muscat-like aspect. Lithe, bright, and -true Kabinett- in style, its 35 grams of residual sugar are simply wicked away in a bracing, lip-smacking finish. This has palpable extract, yet delicacy, and for all of its snappy brightness finishes with rich nut oil undertones. -Yes, there's some greenness,- says Leitz, -but it needs that. I wanted a light, refreshing wine.- Enjoy this one over at least the next 3-4 years, but it may well surprise - Mosel Kabinett-like - and keep going for years thereafter.Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300