Weingut Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Kirchenpfad Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Rheingau, Germany

約瑟夫萊茨酒莊路德斯海姆基爾肯富德芬得萊珍藏雷司令甜白葡萄酒

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Leitz's 2007 Rudesheimer Kirchenpfad Riesling Kabinett feinherb betrays evidence of early harvest in its rather aggressively lemony brightness and tart, Sauvignon-like notes of gooseberry, accompanied by whiffs of narcissus. I'm not sure that having rendered it at fairly low-residual sugar (much as I applaud those German growers still willing to bottle anything with more than 9 and less than 50 grams!) was best for this material. That said, subtle oiliness of texture helps buffer the wine's sharpness, and there is no denying a penetrating, invigorating finish that set my teeth dancing to its tune. This should pair interestingly with certain dishes of the next 3-4 years and perhaps (though I'm skeptical) mellow and show well for longer. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300