Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Liebenberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The Jamek 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg offers classic Veltliner aromas of green bean, lemon, lentil, and cress. A lilac-like perfume hovers alluringly over the entire performance here, as does a spiritous, faintly prickly aura of botrytis. A fascinating contrast of textural creaminess and tart rhubarb, lemon and cress makes for a dynamic if slightly discordant palate impression, and this finishes with cut and grip. It might harmonize with time in bottle, but I would be more inclined to drink it over the next couple of years. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Jamek 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg smells of pear, lychee, almond and sweet pea, is satisfyingly succulent and juicy, with a pungent mineral, cress, and citrus zest character, and finishes with impressive length and purity of fruit, along with considerable mineral fascination. Unlike the majority of Jamek 2006s, which I would drink over the next couple of years, this ought to have at least 5-7 years cellar potential.When I tasted at Jamek in June, three of their five Federspiel bottlings were already “drunk up” on the restaurant list, and there was no Steinfeder. What, I wondered, are the poor guests going to drink here in the heat of midsummer? It certainly was not going to have less than 13% alcohol. Ironically, few of the 2006s here were particularly ripe in flavors. Thankfully, though, there were no difficulties with botrytis at this address of the sort encountered in 2005.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Poised and elegant, this has deliciously restrained fruit that shows green plum flavors and a layer of pepper. To finish this finely balanced wine, there is a layer of fresh acidity. Needs another 3–4 years to develop and round out.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 92