There's just one half-barrel of the 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru, a rich, concentrated and textural wine that evokes honeyed pears, ripe peaches, beeswax and citrus blossom. Full-bodied and muscular, it's a powerful Montrachet in the making.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is one of the most seamless, integrated renditions of this grand cru I've tasted from Chartron. Offering up aromas of fresh peach, warm bread, confit citrus and beeswax, it's full-bodied, deep and satiny, with an envelopingly textural attack, racy acids and a long, expansive finish. This has turned out superbly.

There's only one feuillette of the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, an exotic, musky wine that bursts with aromas of honeyed peaches, mandarin and spices. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and ample, with a generous, textural profile and a heady, exotic finish. It can't compete with the class and definition of the Clos des Chevaliers, but it's a lovely wine in a more gourmand register.

The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru, which comes from purchased must and matured in a single one-year-old barrel, has an attractive ripe passion fruit and lychee-scented bouquet that did not offer the same level of breeding and linearity as the Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers. The palate is ripe and almost tropical in style: hints of vanilla, passion fruit and lychee, generous in the mouth if missing the tension and mineral core of the Chevalier-Montrachet. This is a decent Montrachet if not the best in show from Chartron this year.