The NV Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Contraste is 100% Pinot Noir from Ay and Ambonnay, vintages 2002 and 2003. The wine explodes from the glass with an exotic, liqueur-like expression of rich, ripe fruit. Warm oxidative and honeyed tones add complexity as this large-scaled, dramatic Champagne opens up in the glass. This is an especially rich version of Contraste, most likely owing to the presence of 2003 juice. Ideally, Contraste is a wine best enjoyed at the dinner table, where its decidedly vinous qualities will be best appreciated. Going forward, Selosse has decided to vinify and age the Ay and Ambonnay parcels separately. It will be fascinating to see how those wines develop. They were highly promising when I last tasted them from barrel about a year ago. Sadly, Contraste is not available in the US, although I hope that will change soon, as I am one of the wine's biggest fans. Disgorged December 3, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. This is a marvelous set of new releases from Anselme Selosse. All of the wines were still vibrant and fresh when I re-tasted them a day after opening.Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484, Moon Imports, (Italy only), Genova, Italy; tel +39 010 313849
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