The 2009 Pinot Noir River Block comes across as rich, frank and straightforward. An initial burst of fruit is followed by subtler notes that develop in the glass. Rose petals, hard candy and white flowers make an appearance with time, but the 2009 really needs another few years to blossom. Right now, the future looks very bright. The River Block is one of the 2009 Pinots that is far more interesting than its 2010 counterpart at this stage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I came away deeply impressed by the wines I tasted with Tom Rochioli. The 2010 Chardonnays are absolutely gorgeous. The cold, late-harvest provides a wonderful balance to the inherent richness that is typically present in the wines. Rochioli is one of the later growers to pick. The 2010 Chardonnays were fermented in barrel. Rochioli stirred the lees every week until January, then once every few weeks until the wines were moved to tank in July. The wines spent three weeks in tank and were bottled in August 2011. The Pinot Noirs are stunning in both 2009 and 2010. As is the case throughout the Sonoma Coast, the 2009s are more consistent across the board, but the best 2010s may very well prove to be superior. For now what is certain is that the 2010 Pinots show a level of verve and focus that is missing from the 2009s. Either way, it’s hard to go wrong with any of these big, exuberant Pinots. Tom Rochioli is a bit of recluse, which means his wines remain known only to a relatively small group of consumers. Prices are very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the bottle.Tel. (707) 433-2305

The 2008 Pinot Noir River Block Vineyard exhibits more cinnamon, allspice, plum, kirsch, and forest floor characteristics. From a vineyard planted in 1985, it also reveals an underlying flinty, mineral-like component. This is another beautiful portfolio of wines from Tom Rochioli. Since they all possess a similar style, one can quibble over just how much difference there is between all the different cuvees of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However, there are subtle differences that I will do my best to articulate. With respect to his Pinot Noirs, Rochioli completely destems his grapes, does a cold soak for 4-5 days, and keeps the wines in 100% Francois Freres French cooperage for 14-16 months or less. The wines are racked directly from barrel to tank, and are bottled without fining or filtration.Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358

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