This hard-to- grow variety had a difficult time in 2000, and no less a talented winemaker than Forrest Tancer struggled with it. The resulting wine is tight and lean, with citrusy acids framing cherry fruit and some scoury tannins. Best with rich cheeses to sweeten it. ——S.H.(12/15/2004)—— 86

Iron Horse seeks a full-bodied, even ageable, wine with this difficult varietal, and has blended in small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is tannic, with generic berry flavors, and very dry. It’s a nice complement to rich pastas with olive oil and butter. ——S.H.(9/1/2003)—— 87