The 2009 Rubrum is all Merlot that sees a 24-day maceration period for added intensity and concentration. The wine is polished and fine with deep layers of dark cherry, crushed mineral and integrated spice. Those mineral notes are what give the wine its sense of lift and momentum. The wine offers fine textural richness with silky tannins that wrap smoothly over the palate. There's nothing not to like (except the high price).

A pure expression of Merlot, the 2007 Rubrum makes a great first impression with extremely fine aromas of red cherry, Indian spice and polished river stone. The mineral component is a defining characteristic of this elegant red wine. Distant layering of balsam herb and rosemary add buoyant intensity to the bouquet. The mouth-feel shows streamlined elegance and this wine will gain in complexity for sure. Drink: 2014-2019. Il Carpino is a 15-hectare family estate near the Slovenia border. It was founded in 1987 by Franco and Anna Sosol who have since been joined by their children. Much of the winemaking blueprint was created by consulting enologist Roberto Cipresso who helped establish this estate. Long maceration times for white grapes add to the imposing, somewhat oxidative house style. No American importer.

The 1999 Rubrum may be the finest Merlot I have tasted from Friuli. After 18 months aging in 100% new French oak, with malolactic in barrel, this unfiltered, explosive effort must be tasted to be believed. A black/purple color is accompanied by sweet, toasty, black cherry liqueur, mocha, cola, and currant fruit aromas. Full-bodied, moderately tannic, and youthful, it resembles a barrel sample as opposed to a finished wine. A revelation for the appellation, this fabulous Merlot should evolve for 10-15+ years. Bravo! Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871