This is everything Huber’s previously released unoaked ’05 Chard is, but barrel fermentation and partial malo have made it far softer and richer. Strangely, it’s not as rewarding, though, as the brilliant purity of fruit and acid have been modified. It’s a very good wine, but lacks that je ne sais quoi that makes it stand out from the crowd.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 89