Hogue also makes a Cabernet-Merlot, but this wine includes both those grapes, 20% Syrah, and a pinch of Malbec. It’s firm, tart and supple, with iron filings and black olive, black cherry and moist earth. You don’t often find this much muscle and grip in a $10 wine.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 88