Weingut Hirsch Zobing Riesling, Kamptal, Austria

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Hirsch reported that his 2010 Riesling Zobing seemed not to have bounced back and regained its purity of fruit from bottling even though that was two months before I tasted it in mid-June. Bottle shock or any sort of inhibition were however the last notions that would have crossed my mind! It might be a bit spare, but this exuberantly juicy, bright and (at 11.5% alcohol) buoyant amalgam of fresh lime, grapefruit, and white peach garlanded with musky floral perfume and seemingly suffused with crushed stone, salt, and crystalline mineral dust is sheer bottled energy, which should be great fun to unleash at table over the next 3-5 years. Johannes Hirsch claims not to have de-acidified even his least expensive 2010. “If you just waited to harvest and then waited to bottle,” he insists, “nature took care of things,” not only through precipitation of tartrates but “because these wines just have so much sheer extract,” something I certainly thought palpable while tasting this terrific collection. “The motto for this vintage should be ‘Let it all hang out!’,” Hirsch says with a grin by way of summary.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300