Hirsch’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner #1 incorporates some juice from a nearby corner of the Weinviertel, because of a kindred biodynamic soul from whom Hirsch has begun sourcing. More volume of this wine would be good news, as long as it maintains the quality of the previous five editions, and of this one. Classic lentil, lemon and lime are accompanied by a suggestion of tart red currant, making for a sappy and refreshing white (as I have written before) perfect for every day and for the refrigerator. Outside of the U.S., this consistently good value basic Gruner Veltliner with its new and amusing elk theme label each vintage is numbered sequentially, making this 2007 Trinkvergnugen #6. Johannes Hirsch was already done harvesting in 2007 on October 8 (after starting September 13), not far behind the Nikolaihof. And there is another connection with that venerable estate which may or may not be vital: Hirsch has been passionately pursuing a biodynamic path. I did manage to get a smile out of him when I suggested that he consider replacing the pile of cow horns he had accumulated with much rarer and surely more efficacious antlers of elk (Hirsch). “The clusters were beautifully golden-yellow, perfect,” he relates, so there was no need to wait, which meant missing out on the mid-October rains.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The line-up here begins with the appropriately-named 2004 Gruner Veltliner #1. (Actually, this series of amusing labels featuring a stag – “Hirsch” – is labeled “Drinking Pleasure” in the home market, and is sequentially-numbered, but the U.S. importer preferred to stick with “#1.”) A fresh burst of lime fruit in the nose is followed by a juicy, light, citrus, lentils and black fruit flavored palate presence. Nor does this good value Gruner Veltliner lack for an appealingly fruit-filled finish. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2000 Gruner Veltliner Kammern reveals a pretty nose of white fruits and hints of mint. This light to medium-bodied wine is simple and satin-textured, with white flower, pear, and apple flavors. Drink it over the next 2 years. This 20 hectare (49.4 acre) estate abandoned chemical fertilizers over 25 years ago, replacing them with sheep manure.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300