The 2000 Gruner Veltliner Lamm Alte Reben, produced from 37-50 year old vines, has an expressive nose of smoky minerals and spices. Its earthy, mineral-laced flavor profile exhibits loads of concentration, harmonious balance, and a long, fruit-filled finish. Projected maturity: Now-2008. This 20 hectare (49.4 acre) estate abandoned chemical fertilizers over 25 years ago, replacing them with sheep manure.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The outstanding 1999 Gruner Veltliner Lamm Alte Reben exhibits stone and citrus aromas. This light to medium-bodied, broad, rich, dense wine is crammed with poached pears, spices, and freshly-milled white pepper. Projected maturity: Now-2010. This 20 hectare (49.4 acre) estate abandoned chemical fertilizers over 25 years ago, replacing them with sheep manure.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300