Sweet and sour, like a Chinese pineapple sauce, and there’s an ammonia taste that detracts. On the plus side there’s mouthwatering acidity and a clean finish.——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 84

This unoaked wine depends entirely on its origins for richness and complexity, and succeeds. It’s brilliantly dry and crisp, with rewarding Meyer lemon, kaffir lime and pineapple flavors that have a piquant touch of tart gooseberry. A beautiful and serious wine, among the best of its type.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 88